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Few British seaside towns carry as much cultural weight as Brighton. Perched on the East Sussex coast roughly an hour south of London by rail, it has spent the better part of three centuries reinventing itself, from Georgian pleasure resort to Regency architectural showpiece to the freewheeling, arts-saturated city it is today. That restlessness is part of the character: Brighton does not sit still, and it rewards visitors who are willing to follow its energy rather than impose a fixed itinerary on it.

The Royal Pavilion remains the most arresting single argument for the city's strangeness and ambition. John Nash's Indo-Saracenic fantasy, commissioned by the Prince Regent in the early nineteenth century, sits in the middle of a fairly ordinary English town like a fever dream in stone and cast iron. An entry ticket gets you inside a sequence of rooms that are genuinely unlike anything else in Britain, the Banqueting Room's dragon-held chandelier and the Music Room's gilded domes making the exterior seem almost restrained by comparison. The adjacent Brighton Museum and Art Gallery, housed in the Pavilion's former stables, holds a strong collection of Art Nouveau and Art Deco decorative arts alongside a thoughtful local history gallery, and the two together make for a full morning without any sense of rushing.