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South Korea's second city sits where the mountains meet the sea, and that collision shapes everything about it. Busan occupies a narrow coastal strip at the southeastern tip of the Korean peninsula, its residential districts climbing steep hillsides while its beaches, port facilities, and fish markets occupy the flat ground below. The result is a city of dramatic vertical contrasts, where a ten-minute walk can take you from a crowded seafood market to a hillside village of painted houses with views across the Korea Strait.

The city earned its modern reputation partly through circumstance. During the Korean War it served as the last defensive perimeter and the country's temporary capital, absorbing waves of refugees who built makeshift communities on the slopes above the port. Gamcheon Culture Village, with its densely packed, brightly coloured houses terraced into the hillside above Saha District, grew directly from that period of displacement. It remains one of the most photographed neighbourhoods in the country, though its appeal is less about any single sight than about the texture of the place itself, the narrow alleys, the murals, the sudden open views.